At first word of the Hurricane, the surf reports for NYC read “EPIC”. This video was taken yesterday, and at first, all I could think about was, oh man, they’re surfing hurricane swell! Then other surfers from SF just reminded me, hey, this looks like Ocean Beach. Yes, that’s true. Except dirtier. Also, I am reminded by that white water that I’m still a kook and belong on the beginner beaches, out of everyone’s way. There’s nothing wrong with that; being new at something is terrific because there’s a definite lesson every time you head out, from the water, the board, or fellow surfers. [Youtube]
