Brian Lam

No one gets it 100% right. So, it’s rather meaningless when we call each other hacks over rumors. When you’re up to be wrong, you’ll be up. And the internet will be waiting. With knives. And who’s going to stand up for you then? It’s better we respect each other’s work and cooperate in a linked economy rather than try to compete in a game that isn’t zero-sum. I mean, what are we even trying to compete for? It makes no sense. I have to say that things would be better if everyone understood that about the way news works these days. But I also must admit to a certain pleasure in seeing those who have pissed me off get a karmic boot up their asses. I am not proud of it, but those old instincts from days at Fairtex will probably never go away. Instead of arguing with people, or punching each other in the face, in my thirties, I find it’s best to jump into the ocean’s white water and realize we’re all floating pieces of shit powerless against something like a little wave. Some more than others.

Not really. That’s Gerry Lopez, the famous surfer who helped pioneer surfing at Hawaii’s vicious Pipeline break. As you can see, he’s quite relaxed doing it. On top of his skill, he attributed his survival and success to choosing the right waves and having the right equipment, namely, more shorter, more narrow boards like the ones he used to make with Lightning Bolts on them. Now Gerry lives in Oregon, addicted to snowboarding, surfing the colder breaks in the Pacific Northwest. You have to wonder why anyone would move from Hawaii to Oregon, but I’m sure he has his reasons. Read the rest of this entry »

At first word of the Hurricane, the surf reports for NYC read “EPIC”. This video was taken yesterday, and at first, all I could think about was, oh man, they’re surfing hurricane swell! Then other surfers from SF just reminded me, hey, this looks like Ocean Beach. Yes, that’s true. Except dirtier. Also, I am reminded by that white water that I’m still a kook and belong on the beginner beaches, out of everyone’s way. There’s nothing wrong with that; being new at something is terrific because there’s a definite lesson every time you head out, from the water, the board, or fellow surfers. [Youtube]

At Gizmodo, we’ve done a few fun posts on water photography. First up is Clark Little, north shore surfer/photographer with less fear of the waves than others. His secrets include Nikons, housings coated in Rain X to keep the droplets away and what look like Da Fins (a pair of which I just picked up.) Then, my friend Joel Johnson wrote us a review of a diving case for an iPhone/iPod touch and a review of some Canon camcorder in a housing, which he took with him to the Channel Islands. The videos on Joel’s pieces are worth watching. [Clark Little on Giz, The Canon and H20 by Joel]

Can’t put my finger on it. [Wetpixel]

Lobsters turn blue only one in 5 million; the royal variety earns its shade by processing astaxanthin, and antioxidant found in its food, better than its brethen. [LA Times]

I met some people who actually live in one of these houses. The road washed out above them, and because of an owner/township dispute, no one has fixed it. So they have to hike down stairs to bring down their groceries. But they don’t have to drive to surf, now, so I’d say that’s more than a fair trade.

Japan’s greatest swordsman, Miyamoto Musashi, killed one of his greatest opponents in a duel on an isolated island. His opponent wielded steel; He carved a wooden sword out of an oar on the way to the fight, which he used to crack his enemy’s skull.

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Clingstone is a 103-year-old mansion in Narragansett Bay.

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Style evolution has collected classic wipeouts from 1963 til 2005, from other forms of media, to preserve exactly what it looked like when our fathers and grandfathers (and mothers and grandmothers) ate shit on surfboards. [YouTube via Stokereport]